Diagram Architects

Rule 4: Don’t heat with one hand and cool with another

A large part of creating an energy efficient house is knowing how, when and where to keep the outside conditions on the outside.

And that’s not chicken-feed stuff: In Australia we spend about 44.7% of our residential energy usage – about 170 PetaJoules per year (170,000,000,000,000kJ, or about 5.9 million tonnes of coal equivalent )- on heating and cooling our homes. (That figure’s about 5.1 quadrillion Btu in the USA, equivalent to about 5401PJ or 186 million tonnes of coal).

That’s a mighty load of go-juice spent making the inside of our houses more comfy than the outside. And, depressingly, an awful lot of this energy goes to waste.

From my experience, there are three main ways our homes waste this heating-and-cooling energy:

The first path to waste in our homes – and by far the biggest, in the temperate-climate Australian context – comes from building houses that leak heat, inwards or outwards. There are two ways to fix this: To seal the gaps in our houses, where warm air can enter or escape, and to insulate, insulate, insulate.

The second is by failing to use what we get for free. Failing to admit winter sunlight, or failing to store daytime heat for night-time use (through thermal mass or other energy-storage systems). Failing to cool our houses through night-time breezes or convective cooling. Failing to use evaporation, or to plant trees in the right places.

The third – and in some ways the most insidious- is by heating with one hand and cooling with another.

You can see an example of this every time an air conditioner runs with uninterrupted summer sunlight beaming into a room, or trying to cool when inefficient heat-emitting appliances are running. (In our office our laser printer alone puts out enough heat to raise the temperature two or three degrees. Nice in winter, but not so much fun in summer).

I’ve heard it said that a problem well defined begins to solve itself, and that principle can be applied to energy efficient house design. Look at your site, your situation and your energy sources. Know where your heat is going to come from, your sunpath and wind directions, and you’ll begin to know how to shield from it. Likewise, knowing your potential paths of heat loss; your gaps and uninsulated areas, will show you how to block and insulate them.

The trick is to address your energy gains or losses at the source, rather than developing active systems to counter them.

It’s simple stuff, but even professionals get it wrong sometimes.  It involves a change of mindset – a new thrift, rather than just throwing more energy at a problem.

I once worked on a multi-purpose hall for a primary school where a mechanical engineer proposed an air conditioning system that over-cools the air, then precisely adjusts the temperature by re-heating it again. As he explained the drawings, I sat, dumbfounded. Worse, he was astonished at my astonishment.

This type of inefficient thinking is everywhere, and it’s madness.

Sources:

National Greenhouse Gas Inventory, 1990, 1995 & 1999 Australian Government Department of Climate Change

2005 Residential Energy Consumption Survey, US Energy Information Administration

Rule 3: Insulate, Insulate, Insulate

Houses are, on the whole, fantastic things. They give us all sorts of benefits: Privacy, space to store our stuff and a whole life-support system of services and systems, from hot water to waste disposal..

But one of the main reason we decide to live in houses, rather than bedding down in a swag under a coolibah tree, is the controlled microclimate our houses allow us to achieve.

Face it: It’s hot out there. Or cold. Or windy, snowy, rainy or whatever.

So it makes sense to try to keep the weather we want on the inside, and the weather we don’t want on the outside. But there’s one big problem: our homes leak heat, both inwards and outwards, meaning the inside climate we’ve worked so hard to create is always escaping, and the less-than-ideal outside climate is eternally working its way in. What’s the biggest way to reduce that leaking? Three words: Insulate, insulate, insulate.

Most building codes worldwide now have minimum standards for insulation, and more and more people are retrofitting their existing homes with one sort of insulation or other. We all know that it’s good, and that we should get ourselves some. We have a rough idea that it works something like a blanket, slowing the transfer of heat from a hotter medium to cooler. We know that it helps to keep the outside out, and the inside in.

It should be simple – but it’s not.

A quick trawl of your search engine of choice for information about insulation will reveal a bewildering cornucopia of different types, materials, performances, measurement systems and purposes. The range of products can be bewildering, while differences in measuring insulation can be downright misleading.

Some insulation companies companies measure the thermal resistance of their products by ‘U’ value, most by ‘R’ value.  Each measurement means the opposite (A low U-value means a high R-value, and vice versa). To make things even more confusing, R-values are measured differently in metric (kelvin square metres per watt) and imperial (Degrees Farenheit square feet per Btu). (Note: 1K-m²/w = 5.67446 °F-h/Btu). Check carefully when you compare claims for R-values from overseas.

Some insulation companies measure the performance of their product by itself, and some publicise the ‘whole of wall’ or ‘whole of roof’ performance. Check the small print on any manufacturer’s literature for this. And it’s difficult to compare the performance of reflective insulation with bulk, as they work in entirely different ways.

So what do you need to know when insulating your low-energy house?

The first question you need to ask is “How much do I need?”. Statutory R-levels of insulation are usually set by your local Building Code (The BCA in Australia), but you do have to remember that these are minimum levels only. While a higher R-value is normally better, there are exceptions and there are points of diminishing returns. Getting an energy rating performed on your house design by an accredited house energy rater is often a good place to start. Some insulation companies also publish insulation guides for different locations; these can provide worthwhile advice.

The second question you need to ask is “What type of insulation is best for me?”. There are three main types of insulation available. Bulk insulation uses tiny pockets of air, which resist heat flow, and include Glasswool, Polyester, polystyrene boards and the various types of fluffy batts, blankets and blow-ins. Reflective insulation is great for reducing radiant heat transfer, and includes the foils and other shiny things. Composite insulation uses a combination of reflective and bulk insulation, and includes foil-faced boards, blankets and bubblewraps.

To choose the right type of insulation, you need to know what kind of heat it will be resisting; conductive, convective or radiant. Will most heat be moving outwards or inwards? You also need to know where it will be located and what the limitations of that location will be (how will it be installed? What conditions will it be under? Does it need to be fire resistant? Will it get wet? Will it need an air-space? Will it be crushed or moved by other building elements?).

The third question you need to ask is “How will it be installed?”. This is a biggie. As in every aspect of house design, detail is everything. A good insulation system will be worthless -or even dangerous- if badly or inappropriately installed. Ask your insulation supplier for their standard details or installation instructions, and don’t be afraid to change systems if the installation system doesn’t suit your house. Push your Architect/Designer to detail the installation well, and push your installers to do the job properly.

Insulation is, in many ways, the starting point for most low-energy house design. Get this wrong and everything else you achieve will be leaking out your roof and walls from day one.